Rain's Project 5Ghz or Bust Build Log

RainMotorsports

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I didn't want to create a thread just for the unboxing pics and since I was gonna start a build log thread in a month I figured why not now!

Log Index (Click for individual posts):
1 - Case Unboxing
2 - Case Complete + PSU
3 - Unboxing and Assembly

Build Plan:
CPU - i5-2500K
HSF - Zalman CNPS9900 MAX w/Blue LED
MOBO - ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
RAM - CORSAIR Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8
PSU - Seasonic X750
GPU - 2 x GTX 460's in SLi or 2 x GTX 560's in SLi
 
It was decently packed and nothing was broken unlike some complaints.
V9Blacx-1.jpg


The way the light hits the edges makes it look like its already loaded with dust!
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Side view, Panel will get a fan and some dust filters over the existing openings.
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Inside you can see the tooless features.
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Back view, threw the PSU from sixer in temporarily and You can see the USB 3.0 connector.
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The big top fan and then the SATA docks which make the case special.
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SATA docks as they would be used.
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Fan Filter
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Its red I want blue we will fix this.
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...I kinda always thought storage devices go inside the case...he he
 
...I kinda always thought storage devices go inside the case...lol

Yeah because everyone who does computer repair LOVES to open their case to install a drive just to copy it off. I am also pretty sure I own more hard drives than I have bays in this case and I can swap em around for fraps storage. Saves space over external docks and lessens the cost over using individual enclosures for old useless 500GB hard drives.

Its not a must have feature but considering I have to wait for a file transfer to finish so I can swap the drive in the single dock i currently own, I feel I will get use out of them. The case also cost me the same price as a double dock so good shit in that department i think. Besides their air cooled HAHA j/k.
 
Is that the PSU you plan on using? It looks like an old unit. A general rule of thumb is, if it still has a 110/220v red switch on it, you should think about getting something better. It means the PSU lacks active PFC, which is important these days. I would hate to have you load up a new system and have the sparks fly the first time you jump into a heavy game.
 
Is that the PSU you plan on using? It looks like an old unit. A general rule of thumb is, if it still has a 110/220v red switch on it, you should think about getting something better. It means the PSU lacks active PFC, which is important these days. I would hate to have you load up a new system and have the sparks fly the first time you jump into a heavy game.

Nah note the note on the top of the image it was a temporary throw in i was about to throw a 775 board in the case until i realized it was BTX. I am going with the SeaSonic X750. I will post a near complete build plan tonight I just found out gigabyte has a lack of real UEFI and shitty regulation that might affect my overclocking. MSI only offers one full ATX z68 board at the moment and its pricy ASUS best offer has its flaws. Which leaves me with the ASrock Z68 extreme4 and i like it. Good price just came back in stock too.
 
What do you mean exactly with the Gigabyte board?

unless its changed very recently gigabytes touch efi is actually a windows utility to change bios settings. I was looking at one of the cheaper z68 boards that actually had a video out on it. But toms hardware guide did a 3way between asus best z68 asrocks best and im not sure which gigabyte. They noted its voltage regulator being the worse of the three and it achieved a 100mhz less oc on 1.35 volt compared to the other two. Ill link u when i get home.
 
Alright adding in the current and partly decided build plan.

CPU - I5 2500K - Easy choice, saves money for the graphics card, will probably upgrade to a compatible ivy bridge upgrade in 2 years. Going for 5Ghz or bust, if I bust woulda rather cheeped out on the i5 than the i7.

MOBO - Z68, Maybe P67 Undecided - Gigabytes crappy excuse for not having real UEFI makes me say no to them, ASrock seems to cheap out on an unreliable USB 3.0 controller. MSI and ASUS have expensive and limited z68 options. Leaning toward the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO at the moment.

PSU - Seasonic X750 or X650 - There are other options out there, they have decent voltage stability and actually make their product. Single rail might seem like a downside but power delivery trumps split rail stability in decent products.

RAM - 8GB DDR3 - Undecided, I have my favorites probably picking up a 4GB stick and then another of the same shortly after. Since the cost isnt crazy will be looking at ram rated for higher than standard clock speeds.

GPU - nVidia GTX 560 Ti - The alternative will be Dual GTX 460's which in the short term may out perform the single 560 but I think I can hang onto the single 560 Ti long enough to get another and make it worth it. Skipping Radeon.
 
CPU amd 6 core oc. Stable 4.7 / 12gb ddr3 memory / 2x 580sli / 9tb hd / msi mobo uped voltage / 1000watt / case silverstone rv01 / monitor/tv 55" 1080p 120hz / lick the line that splits my ball sack rain
 
CPU amd 6 core oc. Stable 4.7 / 12gb ddr3 memory / 2x 580sli / 9tb hd / msi mobo uped voltage / 1000watt / case silverstone rv01 / monitor/tv 55" 1080p 120hz / lick the line that splits my ball sack rain

photos? - not of ballsack line

I love inverted MB designs

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photos? - not of ballsack line
I've got some of those if you want me to upload them. You have an option shaved or au natural wildebeest, your choice.

Edit: I smell bust in the making Z68 chipset isn't mature enough to handle that high OC and P67 doesn't seem like it can either with those cpus.
 
B65, H61, H67, P67, Q65, Q67, and Z68 are all the same silicon--just with different features enabled.


So Rain, you're going with the i5-2500K?
 
B65, H61, H67, P67, Q65, Q67, and Z68 are all the same silicon--just with different features enabled.

So Rain, you're going with the i5-2500K?

I am only trying to get in the club sixer I didnt say I planned to run it daily. 4.5 to 4.7 is more like what Id be comfortable with.

There has been some talk here and there about P67 being better for overclocking. Frankly this is bullshit between the voltage regulator, the northbridge defects, the processors own defects and anything other imperfections that can get in the way its not even possible to prove. Silicon doesn't come out perfect and thats why overclocking is so fun :p

5Ghz isnt a question of possible, its more of a question of what voltage. Past 1.4 it seems on 32nm your asking to burn it up and the only real options to make it happen if you fail to make it are phase change and shit like LN2.

Most of the motherboard reviews test the overclock at a safe voltage like 1.35 and I notice tom's hardware guide uses the exact same cpu for the tests and tends to get 4.7 on boards with 12 phase voltage regulation. Not sure about the others setups but they also hit the same frequency. Cooler reviews on the other hand tend to find a sample that will do 5Ghz+ for their reviews and will test both air and water coolers on an i5 or i7 running between 5 and 5.2Ghz. I dont exactly have the luxury of try another one though.

Yes Bob, I dont need to spend 100 bucks extra for bragging rights, While I have been working on a security research project a couple of years that would take advantage of execution stalls to do delayed task processing. I cant say my gaming will need it as often. Besides @ 4.5+ Ghz I dont think I will care for a year or two. Also note that if you want in the club most people disable the hyperthreading for 5ghz.
 
I have my doubts but maybe I can get lucky.... 4.8 on 1.35v nice didnt notice this reviewer was using an ES though, which is actually normal for the site doing such as they are sent ES samples.

cpuz_oc.gif
 
Alright well I am not happy with the price but I picked a motherboard. Ram subject to change.

CPU - i5-2500K
HSF - Zalman CNPS9900 MAX w/Blue LED
MOBO - ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
RAM - CORSAIR Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8
PSU - Seasonic X750

Im currently debating on 2 x GTX 460's vs 2 x GTX 560's (Not the Ti...) Same performance per clock but the 560 should use less power and clock higher as well as be higher clocked out of the box. Being on such an extreme budget the difference could mean losing something else (non major components that still need to be purchased).
 
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