Mechanic gave me the advice that I should sell my truck.

RainMotorsports

RainMotorsports

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That was 2 years ago. Truck is 15 years old, has never broken down on me once or left me stranded.

But uh I have forgotten which way the wheel is supposed to be oriented when driving straight:
IMG_20131026_022231.jpg

Pretty sure this thing is fucked. Took that 30 minutes ago not that it was any different in recent history. Sigh, ever since I haven't had a drive way to park in I am too lazy to fix anything so its just like... nahhh
 
Assuming it's paid for at 15yo lol, that truck is making you money if it's your DD taking you back and forth to work. Unless you pay all out, do you really need a car note?
 
Do you have an adjustable draglink? Not adjusted properly?A few things can cause this. All easy to fix..
P.S your mechanic is retarded.
 
s-10 or blazer?! or the gmc equiv? Miss my 94 s10...that thing was a beast. Didnt get the best of gas mileage, but decent for a v6 of its time
 
All you need is an alignment. Probably some tie rods as well. Shouldn't cost much.
 
no payment... WIN! even if it's a couple hundred dollars, car payment & full coverage insurance = poor investment
 
what are the two warning lights on the dash lit up for? did your mechanic say?
 
tarpancake said:
what are the two warning lights on the dash lit up for? did your mechanic say?
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One of them (left) is the Service/Check Engine Soon light and the other (right) (I'm guessing) is the ABS light.

@Snakebabies - it's a Blazer.

And I agree with everyone else, fuck a car payment.
 
Pit man arm and idler arm. I have to change them ever 30-40,000 miles on my Astro. Just pay the 40 bucks at a shop to inspect the front end. I would change out the whole front end at this point (control bushing, shocks, inner/outer tie rod......AutoZone.com | Shopping Cart) At the price of tires. It would be something to look into. So around 316 bucks in parts to have that bad boy like new again is a steal. That's one new car payment.

If you need help. I have ALLDATA and can sent you step by step how to. To help you along.
 
ALLDATA is the bomb. In case you don't know, it has the actual manufacturer specs for everything.
 
For the record it wasn't "my" mechanic. Was one I was forced to take it to when I went to north carolina and family found out what kinda shape it was in lol. I don't really have a mechanic as I don't even trust someone else to put tires on my vehicle. But I do trust a falling apart wreck to not kill me!

tarpancake said:
what are the two warning lights on the dash lit up for? did your mechanic say?
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ABS modulator is throwing 9 codes but its fine I just need a new harness I know exactly what happened.

Check engine light is probably (haven't checked this instance) tps range/performance but pretty much every code I get at the moment is related to the fact that for the last 3 years the fuel pump is leaking pressure back into the tank. In a bit of an argument with my step father over whether that is the case. He thinks its the spider leaking but I would have some serious gas mileage issues along with it continuing to run like shit after the pressure loss is compensated for. Neither of which is the case its either the regulator or the pump assembly because the fuel isn't leaving the vehicle. It is a return style system but the regulator's on this year fail about as often as the government shuts down.

Back when I had a driveway I used to fix every little thing but now that I am lucky to park 9 blocks from my house... Let's see when it got broken into I replaced the window but never put the door panel back on. It took me 2 years to get around to replacing a wheel bearing which if I never get the alignment sorted is probably gonna need replacing again.

Living in a city blows donkey dick.

Sgt.SID said:
Pit man arm and idler arm. I have to change them ever 30-40,000 miles on my Astro. Just pay the 40 bucks at a shop to inspect the front end. I would change out the whole front end at this point (control bushing, shocks, inner/outer tie rod......AutoZone.com | Shopping Cart) At the price of tires. It would be something to look into. So around 316 bucks in parts to have that bad boy like new again is a steal. That's one new car payment.

If you need help. I have ALLDATA and can sent you step by step how to. To help you along.
Click to expand...

Replaced the shocks already, I have the control arm bushings but at this point I wouldn't be able to stand doing them myself. 4WD with torsion bars I am going to have to put it on a lift for sure. My step father was going to do it but complained about doing it in the dirt when he realized the configuration.

Already figured the tie rods and idler and an alignment but I haven't had much of a chance to get under it. Hopefully she makes it until like march so I can get my video card and stuff. Priorities ya know.

At this point I was seriously thinking about going to the auction. Sure in a few years I will be back to this point but need to put atleast that into this mess.
 
Tasty said:
Control arm bushings are a bitch fuck that!
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Forget the stock ones, go buy two aluminum arms with Hiem joints. Sure they cost twice as much as stock arms. However you will never have to pay to have an alignment done cause a wrench and a tape measure is all that is needed.

Is it sad to say that our racecar has better parts then the stock Z71 Chevy 2500 truck. and it cost 7 times as much to work on.
 
Eh; make your call. A new car would have much improved gas mileage. Really depends on what you need, though. New cars & old cars both require regular out-of-pocket maintenance. Naturally, new cars are typically financed & thus need to carry collision, so you're looking at $400+/mo there. It's really your call, but for me the difference will be in frequency of repair and cost when compared to buying a more recent used car. $7K-10K to double your gas mileage and reduce your future repair bill. But make your decision and stand by it. No point to fixing it if you can't recoup the investment.
 
I love the truck and I have the attitude if I get something else I won't know what to do when shit goes wrong. I'm not a great mechanic but I know every wire in this truck. But my mother just ditched her 04 Exploder for a decent car got it for 2 grand at an auction.

Back when I still had a drive way I was pulling the optionals of junk yard blazers Jimmy's and bravadas. Put the automatic dimming mirrors the overhead console with the fuel economy read out all that shit. Got the factory class 3 hitch received off a rust free 99 for 22 bucks. Love these yards here.

I never did find and was gonna do the 6 or 8 way power leather seats. Funny enough I found several sets of tan seats in perfect shape but the black ones were always FUBAR.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
 
Plot twist: he slammed into the wall after turning sharply to the right.
 
HeatSurge said:
Plot twist: he slammed into the wall after turning sharply to the right.
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Actually I would have loved to swing out left just to get the wheel further right for the picture. Nah I am gonna slam into the wall when the rod end goes due to the out of balance wheel ripping on it every half second. Don't ask had a flat put a can in it and didn't drive right away so it settled and now its just going to make fucked steering components even worse. Time for tires anyways. Ill probably do everything all in one shot.
 
Last week the vehicle started shaking pretty bad when decelerating from high speeds as well as plenty of other symptoms. So i rode my bike 10 miles to work every day for the last week lol.

Got under it yesterday and grabbed the tie rod assembly on the right side and there was no play in the tie rod. Sure enough the idler arm was toast and the majority of center link movement was coming from there. Pitman has a tiny amount of play, but my ass, balls, knees and legs hurt so its time to do the least.

Replaced the Idler arm today and its fucking wonderful. Minor amount of play still but the steering is so much tighter and I barely have to turn right to go straight. Its really scary to turn left, the vehicle actually responds!
 
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